When our legs are too tired to walk down and back up the hill to our neighborhood, we stay in and have dinner parties at our apartment, aka Dikilitas Palace. Our friend, Sonia, had promised to make us shrimp and Gurkan, lover of all fish, big and little, cooked up some levrek for us. Thankfully, it wasn’t Karadeniz night at Dikilitas Palace so I didn’t have to eat the little hamsi, bones and all. However, what I couldn’t persuade Gurkan to do was cut the face off my fish, so its eyeballs bulged in the oven, and it landed on my plate with a smile. The shrimp were all smiles too! Since Nazli and Berk had just returned from vacation in Greece, we also had ouzo to pass around and good food and fun was had by all.